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Embed code for: Product and Pictorial Log
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Date & Time
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Saturday, October 22, 2016
12:30 PM - 1:30 PM
Total hours: 1
Today I met my project facilitator, John Veith, for the first time in person. We discussed various ideas on how I should go about constructing my grandfather clock. He showed me his impressive collection of different types of clocks and the myriad of parts and pieces that went with them. After a little while of discussing, he showed me an old, miniature, nonfunctioning grandfather clock which I took home with me as a starting point.
My first impression about my facilitator was that he had clearly been working with clocks for many years and knew what he was doing. He shared with me a lot of useful information about what exactly makes the clock tick: the mechanism, the pendulum, and all the tiny pieces that surround them.
I knew that building a grandfather clock would not be a simple task, but now I am overwhelmed with all of the tough decisions I will have to make before construction, such as: the style of the clock, the materials, the size, etc.
Above, I stand with my project facilitator John; in my hand I hold the mechanism and in his hand he holds the pendulum. These two pieces are key to the clock functioning properly.
This is the old, broken clock that my facilitator gave me as a starting point. Its mechanism, clock face, pendulum, and plethora of pieces are useful to me but the wood is not.
Sunday, November 6, 2017
12:00 PM - 12:30 PM
Total hours: 1.5
Today, I did some research on the myriad of different types of grandfather clocks that exist. I began the search by just googling “grandfather clock” and then clicking on the images. This first search gave me an extremely large variety of clocks with differing sizes, shapes, colors, etc. After looking around a little bit, I then refined the search to “rustic grandfather clocks,” which then pulled up several similar-styled grandfather clocks which peaked my interest.
Before today, I was quite oblivious to the fact that almost every grandfather clock has its own style. While looking at the different clocks on my initial search, I was extremely intimidated by the complex craftsmanship of most of the clocks. However, as I kept looking, I soon realized that the best option for my product is a “rustic” style, which is an old, almost imperfect type of look. This style greatly corresponds with the pieces my facilitator gave me, since they are very old and do not look perfect.
In this picture, I am looking at many different images of rustic grandfather clocks. I think this style is what will work the best for my product.
Thursday, November 24, 2016
1:00 PM - 1:30 PM
Total hours: 2
The first step in building anything is collecting the materials. So, before I did anything else, I needed to acquire the lumber necessary. It just so happened that my grandfather- who resides on his farm in Rockwood, Tennessee- had an excess of barn wood, in the form of his 70-year-old horse barn that had recently fallen. I made the trip up there and collected all the wood I would need to construct the base of my clock.
My family travels to my grandfather’s home every year for Thanksgiving, so it seemed a perfect time to pick out my lumber from the fallen barn.
When I arrived and inspected the barn, I marveled at how well some of the wood still looked after over 70 years of weathering. I picked fifteen boards that were in the best shape and looked the most appealing.
I am excited to see these rustic pieces of barn wood transform into an ornate timekeeping device.
This is the collapsed horse barn that was built in the 1940’s. The pieces of barn wood that are still intact have a very weathered, ancient look to them.
In this picture, I am selecting a piece of wood from the barn for my clock.
Friday, November 25, 2016
12:45 PM - 2:15 PM
Total hours: 3.5
Before jumping straight into the construction process, I needed to first come up with some dimensional guidelines. So, I measured my boards to see how much surface area I was working with. After doing so, I sketched a design that fit the measurements. Using a straightedge and a pencil, I drew four different views- front, top, right side, and 3-dimensional- of the design I had in mind.
After measuring my boards, I decided that a slight taper on the base of my grandfather clock would look nice with the rustic wood. Keeping this in mind while also utilizing my skills from my freshman Introduction to Architecture and Design class, I composed the sketches that would eventually transform into the physical product. Since the only dimensions I have control over are those of the wooden base, I did not even bother writing in any of the dimensions of the various other pieces of the clock.
Here, I am beginning the 3-dimensional sketch of the clock. This requires a straight edge, a pencil, and precision.
This is the 3-dimensional sketch of my grandfather clock. My final product is based off this.
Above is the front view of the clock, which includes all the relevant measurements for this face. It is important to ensure every measurement is present.
Thursday, December 22, 2016
12:45 PM - 4:45 PM
Total hours: 7.5
With the supervision of my father, I constructed the base of the clock according to the sketches that I had drawn up. Due to the old age of the barn wood, I decided it would be safe to first build the outline of the base in cheap plywood. After building this, I then cut and nailed down the boards of barn wood onto the plywood outline. Once I had completed these steps, I cut out a large hole in the front of the wood where the clock face and pendulum will later sit. Finally, I added the three-inch-thick border to the top and bottom of the base to give it some pizazz. Throughout this whole process, my dad watched over me in order to make sure I completed this task safely. For each separate piece of the base, I first marked a line with a pencil on the piece of wood, then placed the piece on two sawhorses, and lastly used a power saw to precisely cut the wood along the line. I put all the individual pieces together using a nail gun.
In my opinion, the hardest part of this whole process was putting the border onto the base. This was because where the sides of the border meet the front, the angles must correspond perfectly for it to be flush. To do this, I turned the power saw to its 45-degree angle setting. Once nailing on the border, I placed a level on the top and the bottom to ensure that the surfaces were straight. In the places that it was not level, I lightly tapped the wood with a hammer to slightly alter its position.
Overall, this first task took much more time than anticipated. This really showed me how important precision was when cutting the boards, because if one piece has the wrong dimensions, it looks bad.
After finishing the day’s work, I was very pleased with how the base of my grandfather clock turned out!
I am marking a line on a piece of plywood to cut along with the sawhorse. I pay close attention to where I mark the line, ensuring that it corresponds with my previously drawn sketch.
Above, I am sawing a piece of barn wood to put on top of the plywood outline. Cutting this thick wood takes much more effort than cutting thin plywood.
This is the finished product from today’s work. Everything meets the predetermined dimensions fairly close.
Saturday, December 31, 2017
2:00 PM - 2:45 PM
Total hours: 8
Today, I met with John to update him about my progress and discuss the next step of the building process. He told me that he liked the rustic theme that I decided on for my clock. Also, he admitted that I had gone much further than he expected: he anticipated me showing up with a newer model of the original clock he gave me. We discussed whether or not I should cut out a hole in the front or put the clock face directly on the wood. After some time, we both agreed that it would look the best if a hole was cut out and the clock face was placed flush with the wood.
The hardest part about today’s meeting was transporting the base of my clock to my facilitator’s car. Because it weighs well over fifty pounds, I brought a mobile cart with me so I didn’t have to carry it everywhere. What Jon told me today does not seem all that difficult (cutting the circle out of the clock), but I know that it must take some serious concentration based off how much he was stressing it. I intend to take my time on it and do it right.
In the image above, the base of my grandfather clock is sitting on top of the cart I use to transport it. Without this cart, lugging the clock from point A to point B is quite the challenge.
Sunday, January 22, 2017
1:00 PM - 1:45 PM
Total hours: 8.5
Today, I finished the external appearance of the wooden base of my grandfather clock. First, I placed the center of my clock face at the top point of the triangle cut out on the front face. Then, I took a pencil and traced the outside rim of the clock face. Next, with my dad’s supervision, I very slowly cut out the hole with a Rotozip. I cut a little outside the drawn circle, to make sure there are no pencil marks on the front face. After cutting the right half, I had to turn off my tool, switch positions to the other side of the clock, and then cut the left half. Lastly, I sanded where I had cut to make the surface look smoother.
This process was much more nerve-wracking than I expected. Before I began to cut, my father said, “Make sure you don’t mess it up because the front is what everybody sees.” After he said this, I realized how crucial this step truly was in the overall appearance of the clock. So, I took my time and got the job done. After I was done with the cutting and the sanding, I looked at the front face of the clock and thought that it looked pretty evenly cut.
This is me standing in my garage with the base of my grandfather clock. In completing this, I am done with woodworking and on to clock building.
Sunday, February 12, 2017
Total hours: 9
I met with John again today and we discussed what my next few steps should be. The first thing we talked about is how to connect the mechanical part of the clock to the base while making sure the clock face is flush with the front of the wood. Then, after inspecting the pendulum and mechanism, we determined that the next step should be shaving down the main pendulum near the top to fit the slot on the back of the mechanism. We also decided that I should attempt to find and purchase a new pendulum bob (because the shape of the one I have is somewhat rough) and a fifth pendulum rod (because I am missing it). After all these steps, I should then be good to put everything together.
Before this meeting with my facilitator, I did not think that I was very close to being complete. However, after this encounter, I realized that the finish line might be closer than I thought. In my opinion, the hardest of the three tasks he assigned me will be assembling everything at the end. Shaving down the pendulum should not be difficult (maybe just somewhat time consuming) and once I find a suffice way to keep the clock face flush, that shouldn't create much difficulty either. However, at this point, I had no idea where I would go to find a bob or a copper rod besides the internet (and hopefully it can be found there).
Here, I am holding the pendulum, which is currently too thick, at the edge of its slot. Jon says that it is necessary for the pendulum to fit into this slot to allow the mechanism to keep the clock at its steady, rhythmic pace.
Saturday, February 25, 2017
5:00 PM - 6:00 PM
Total hours: 10
Today, I assembled the real part of the clock: the part that makes it tick. The first thing I did was wash off the clock face, rim, and inner circle because they were extremely dirty. Then, with all the materials, I first placed the mechanism (the golden rectangular prism) onto the shelf-like piece that will be bolted to the wood. Then, I fit the end of the pendulum up in between them and connected it to its hanger on the shelf-like piece. Next, I aligned the pendulum into its slot located on the back side of the mechanism (although I will not be shaving it down to fit until tomorrow). After that, I laid out the eight screws, two bolts, and two washers that I had in front of me. After a few different attempts, I discovered where each went, with two screws and one washer left over. The next step was to connect the rim of the clock face, the clock face itself, and the inner circle of the face to the front of the mechanism. Next, the clock hands went on, the hour first and the minute hand after. Then, a washer and a flashy bolt go on top of the clock hands.
Before I began to assemble the finished clock, I knew that I first had to discover how the pieces, screws, mechanisms, and clock face and hands fit together. Therefore, the purpose of today’s task was primarily so I am not completely blind when I go straight into assembling together the final product. The most important part of this task is ensuring that the back of the mechanism is in contact with the top of the shelf-like piece because that is the position necessary for the gong to work correctly (the gong is the circular piece that is struck at the top of the hour). After I put everything together, I had a pretty good idea of how the whole product will eventually fit together to achieve the ultimate goal: keeping time.
Pictured above is my hand holding the mechanism, which is resting on top of the shelf-like piece, which is holding the pendulum. The inside of the mechanism is extremely intricate and is the brain of the clock.
This is a picture of the next step of the assembly: the inner circle, clock rim, clock face, and minute/hour hands are now on the front of the mechanism. This is what the clock will look like inside the base once completely finished.
Sunday, February 26, 2017
1:00 PM - 3:00 PM
Total hours: 12.5
The first thing I did today was screw down the shelf-like piece onto a piece of wood. Then, I added on the mechanism, clock face, clock rim, and inner circle. I then measured the distance from the front of the clock face to the piece of wood. Then, I marked the same distance inside the base of the clock from the front face. Next, I screwed in a small piece of wood on each side of the inside of the base where I had marked the line. The next step was to shave down the pendulum, which I did by utilizing a dremel. I moved the dremel around the rod to make sure I wasn't just shaving off one side. Finally, I put everything together: I put the pendulum on its hanger and nailed down the wood holding the clock onto the two pieces I had earlier placed to make sure the clock face is flush.
The thing that surprised me the most today is how long it took to shave down the pendulum. First off, I used too smooth of a piece on the dremel so at first no metal was being shaved off. After changing pieces, the process was still extremely slow. I paid close attention to turning the pendulum while I did this so the rod did not become completely uneven.
I feel like assembling the pieces first yesterday made the final step of today much quicker and easier. After I put everything together and glanced at the clock, I thought to myself that once I put in a piece on the back of the base, the product should overall look quite nice.
In this picture, the pendulum of my clock lies on the bed of my dad’s truck and I am using the dremel to shave down the metal in the designated area. I made sure to wear safety goggles during this process because a flying shard of metal can take an eye out.
Sunday, March 5, 2017
2:00 PM - 2:30 PM
Total hours: 13
Today I went on a mission to find a piece of copper rod for my pendulum to make it more symmetric. Also, if possible, I hoped to find a new bob (the circular part of the pendulum) as well. The first stop, Home Depot, offered no help: the piece of copper I needed had to be ⅛” thick, but the smallest width they had was ¼”. Then, I did some online shopping on eBay. I quickly found the right size of copper rod, then began looking for a bob. After a little bit of searching on eBay and Amazon and noticing the very small selection, I stopped the search. I then paid for the copper rod which should arrive on the eighteenth of March.
While searching Home Depot for a thin piece of copper, I had to ask some of the workers if they knew where I could find it. The answers that I got made me realize that what I was looking for might be hard to find. Two of the workers told me to ask another worker; two of the workers referred me to the hardware section, where the ¼” thick rods were located. Later, when I was shopping online, finding the rod took little effort. However, finding a new bob that fits the dimensions was not an easy task. The key thing that I needed on my bob is three holes for the three pendulum rods. After some time of looking and failing to find a 5 ½” diameter bob with that characteristic, I decided that my current pendulum bob would have to do.
This is the copper rod I decided to purchase for the pendulum of my clock. It only costs six dollars plus five dollars for shipping.
Sunday, March 12, 2017
3:00 PM - 4:00 PM
Total hours: 13.5
The first thing I did today was unscrew the piece of wood holding the clock face flush with the front. Then, I took apart the clock face, clock rim, inner circle, and clock hands so that just the bare mechanism was showing. Next, I picked up a key from John to wind the mechanism ultimately making the clock tick. When I returned home, I tried winding the two knobs on the mechanism, but to my dismay the key was too small.
At this point in time, assembling and disassembling the pieces of the clock comes naturally and only takes about ten minutes. I played around with the key for a little while: I placed it on both knobs, spinning the key to possibly lock on at a certain position. However, it simply did not fit. All I can hope right now is that my project facilitator has a key that actually fits and that he mistakenly gave me this small-sized one. If not, I will have no way to rewind the mechanism, which means there is no way that the clock will function properly.
In this picture, I am attempting to fit the key onto the right knob of the mechanism. However, the key is not quite fitting the way that it should be.
Monday, March 13, 2017
7:00 PM - 8:30 PM
Total hours: 15
I met with my facilitator again today and told him about the misfit key. Luckily, he had 6 or 7 to choose from - one of which was a match. Once finding this match, I wound first the right knob and then the left knob of the mechanism. The right knob wound easily, but when attempting to spin the left knob, it made a sharp noise that indicates one of the hundreds of gears connected to that piece is faulty. After discussing what this means with John, it turns out that the right knob controls the time, while the left knob controls when the striker hits the gong. Then, after winding the right knob sufficiently, I reassembled the clock on the mechanism. After this, I screwed the piece back onto the base. Finally, I connected the pendulum, gave it a slight push, and it began swaying back and forth creating a slight noise: tick tock, tick tock, tick tock…
Overall, I feel wonderful about how today’s events played out. After the stress of yesterday’s misfit key, knowing that I have access to the correct key is a weight lifted off my shoulders. When I wound the left knob and it made the sharp noise, I immediately became a little disappointed out of instinct. However, it is extremely lucky that the time-keeping knob works while the striker knob is malfunctioning. While the striker hitting the gong is not vital to the clock’s purpose, keeping time is its sole purpose, so I am happy that this was the case. After putting everything together, pushing the pendulum back, and letting it go, hearing the rhythmic tick tock noise was music to my ears! Although there are still a few minor things I will need to tweak in the future, my clock is 95% complete.
I am holding the piece of wood with the mechanism connected to it in my left hand and I am successfully winding the right knob with my right hand. Doing this keeps the mechanism on pace for approximately seven days (because it is a seven-day mechanism).
This is a picture of the entire clock put together, which shows everything I have done up to this point. In my opinion, the precise clock face-hole border is the coolest part.
Thursday, March 16, 2017
Total hours: 16
Although after my last efforts the clock sounded good, I realized today that it only runs for about 45 seconds accurately (accurately meaning that the minute hand corresponds with actual time). To fix this, I first removed the single screw on each side holding the wooden board holding the mechanism and replaced them with two screws on each side to improve sturdiness. Then, I messed with the height of the pendulum bob for quite some time. After each adjustment, I observed and recorded how long the clock ran accurately. However, after repeating this task about fifteen times, the longest it ran on beat was two and a half minutes.
Today was basically a slap in the face to my morale regarding this project. I had done everything that my facilitator instructed me to do, yet the result was far from acceptable. While adjusting the nut did help somewhat, I personally do not consider a clock that runs two and a half minutes to be a successful senior project. Given my extreme lack of knowledge regarding clocks and how they tick, I decided at the end of the day that I will need to consult my facilitator before I make any further adjustments.
In this selfie, I am standing at the back of my clock where I adjust the bob height nut. Spinning the nut to the right highers the bob, while spinning the nut to the left lowers it.
Saturday, March 18, 2017
Total hours: 17
Today, John came over to my house to look at my product. As I expected, he immediately pointed out a few different things that could be causing the clock to come to a halt after such a short period of time. The first thing was that the wooden board holding the mechanism needs to be level both horizontally and vertically for it to function properly (currently the board is not level in either of these directions). The second thing he noticed was that the mechanism was out of beat. He then proceeded to show me how to put it into beat: when the pendulum is swaying back and forth, if the pendulum goes further on one side than the other, you must press down on the hanger of the mechanism and pull the pendulum in the opposite directions for a few seconds, then let go. The last thing John discussed with me was that I should attempt to see whether the pendulum will run properly. He told me that in order to do this I must make a device that holds both the mechanism and the pendulum to test if it will sway without resistance.
To be honest, I never would have thought of either of these variables without John. Once he said that the mechanism needs to be perfectly level, I realized that a slight taper on the face of the clock base might not have been the best idea. This is because a taper means that when the board holding the mechanism is screwed down directly to the face, it sits at a slight angle rather than level. Because of this factor, one of my next steps will have to be finding a way to adjust this. Regarding the process of putting the mechanism into beat, although it sounds rather complicated, it honestly is not a difficult thing to do. I am confident that I will be able to repeat this task on my own in the future if necessary thanks to John’s careful instructions. When Mr. Veith first started talking about a pendulum testing device, I was somewhat perplexed. However, right after he showed me some examples on the internet, which gave me a much better picture of what I would have to create.
In this picture I am putting the mechanism into beat by pressing down on the left side of the gear that causes the pendulum to sway. This is a key component in making the clock work for a longer length of time.
Sunday, March 19, 2017
4:00 PM – 5:30 PM
Total hours: 18.5
The first thing I did today was research a little bit about pendulum testing devices. After this, I came up with a basic design for one in my head that should be able to achieve its purpose. I grabbed a piece of paper, a pen, and a straight edge and began sketching. I first drew the 3-dimensional view of the proposed device, and then went on to sketch a right, front, and top view as well. Once I had finished the sketches, I measured a few spare pieces of wood that I had in my garage. Then, I went back and labeled all the necessary dimensions on the sketches based on the pieces of wood that I had just measured.
The trickiest part about this process was deciding what material to use to hold the mechanism board in place on the device. On the internet, many devices used some type of metal rod (which I did not have in my disposal). After a little bit of brainstorming, I decided that the most logical thing to use would be screws, considering they are sturdy enough to get the job done and I have them in excess. The most important dimension in the sketches I created today is the distance between the two arms of the device. If I construct these arms too close together, then the pendulum will bump into them, leading to a useless device. Keeping this in mind, I made this dimension eight inches, which should be more than enough room for the pendulum.
Above I am carefully sketching the design of the pendulum testing device. The most important dimension of the design is the distance between the two screws.
This is the finished design for the pendulum testing device. It is simple yet thought out enough to fulfill its purpose.
Thursday, March 23, 2017
4:30 PM – 6:00 PM
Total hours: 20
My first step in constructing the pendulum tester was to gather all the necessary materials: a power saw, a drill, four nails, four screws, a hammer, and two long pieces of wood. I began by cutting the three pieces of wood with the saw. Next, I screwed them together at the ends with a drill. I decided to put two screws on each of the ends because if only one was present, the boards would pivot around it rather than holding it in place. The next step was to first mark where to place the nails on each board (slightly over one inch apart). After I made the markings with a pencil, I lightly tapped each nail into place. With this last step, my pendulum testing device was complete. Then, I went on to test the pendulum with it. To do this, I placed the mechanism board between the nails and placed a heavy weight on the back to ensure it wouldn’t fall forwards. I placed the device to where the mechanism and pendulum were hanging over the edge of the table. I swayed the pendulum and it continued to rock back and forth for twelve minutes, meaning that it theoretically should last just as long in the base of the clock.
Constructing my pendulum testing device honestly was not that difficult of a task. However, the part that gave me the most trouble was the spacing of the nails on each arm. At first, the nails were too far apart so when I placed the mechanism board in the slot it leaned sharply forward, which is not okay. To counter this I had to tap around on the nails a few times before it finally sat where it needed to be. Honestly, when I let go of the pendulum to test it, I somewhat expected it to come to a halt after two and a half minutes like it did in the base. However, this was not the case. It rhythmically swung back and forth while making the tick tock sound throughout. This was a huge accomplishment in itself.
This picture shows the finished pendulum testing device. Thankfully, the wooden board holding the mechanism fits perfectly between the support nails.
Here the pendulum is connected to the mechanism which is sitting in the testing device. The pendulum is free to sway to and fro without resistance.
Saturday, March 25, 2017
1:30 PM – 2:30 PM
Total hours: 21
The overall goal of today’s work was to make the mechanism board sit level both horizontally and vertically in the base of the clock. To do this, I decided that I needed to place an angled block on the inside of the base on both sides that would counter the taper of the face. I cut two equally angled blocks and screwed them in on each side. Sadly, both pieces split down the middle making them useless. So, I repeated the process with a thicker wood this time and they did not split. Then, I screwed the mechanism board onto each of the angled pieces. I then used a protractor to see if the mechanism board sat at a perfect ninety-degree angle, and it did.
In hindsight, there are a couple of things that I did today that could be considered faulty. First, the fact that I cut angled boards without first making any sort of prior measurements or calculations could theoretically cause a problem (unless I luckily cut at the perfect angle). The second thing is that the protractor technique that I used is not necessarily fool proof for one reason: there is not a flat surface in the base of the clock to compare the angle to. In other words, a ninety-degree angle could actually be an eighty-five-degree angle. The reason I used a protractor rather than a level is that I do not currently own a level small enough to fit in the area needing to be tested.
This picture shows the angled blocks that I placed in the interior of the clock base. While the mechanism board may not be perfectly level from this, it is undoubtedly more level than it was previously.
Sunday, March 26, 2017
Total hours: 22
The first thing I did today was purchase a small, portable level. After going back to my house, I checked the horizontal and vertical levelness of the mechanism. To my dismay but not necessarily to my surprise, neither were level. So, in order to make it vertically level I took some measurements and drew a sketch of the blocks needed to replace the ones already inserted.
While I was not entirely shocked by the fact that the mechanism was not level, it still gave me a degree of grief. I now realize more than ever how strenuous of a process this is. When I took the measurement for the block, I used a ruler to measure the angled length of the interior where the blocks will be placed. Next, I used my knowledge of basic trigonometric ratios to calculate the other two dimensions of the block – the length of the two shorter sides.
This is a picture of my drawing and calculations for the two block pieces. During this mathematical finding, I thought to myself how useful arithmetic can actually be in the real world.
Monday, March 27, 2017
Total hours: 23
At this point in my process, I am having doubts about whether the pieces I have will ever work properly. So, I decided to research secondary options if I inevitably fail. I first looked up the five-digit code on the back of my mechanism and discovered that this specific type is a German model and has not been made since the early twentieth century. Next, I researched how much a whole kit would cost me – a kit meaning a pendulum, mechanism, clock face, clock hands, and a key. The cheapest thing I could find was two hundred dollars. Because of this, I decided then to look up how much just a replacement pendulum would cost. To my dismay, I was not able to find the proper size pendulum that fits my pendulum due to its old age.
Overall, everything I researched today was bad news. When I discovered how old my mechanism is, I immediately started having doubts that I would find anything for it. After I kept reading, one article said that a mechanism should be either tossed out or repaired every thirty years or so. This meant that I was about seventy years overdue. The option of buying a whole new kit was quickly thrown out of the equation for two reasons: it is very expensive, and also it would make everything up to this point in my project seem like a waste. The most frustrating part of this entire research session was that I could not manage to find a single website that knows what size pendulum fits with my mechanism. This basically means that I am stuck with what I have… so hopefully it works.
This is a picture of one of the things I searched to eventually find what I was looking for. It took me several searches before I found even relatively what I was looking for.
Tuesday, March 28, 2017
7:15 PM – 9:45 PM
Total hours: 25.5
Everything that I did today was solely to make my clock more appealing to the eye. The first thing I did was visit Home Depot and purchase two things: a thin, tan, rectangular piece of wood and a set of hinges. Once back at my house, I first measured the back of my clock and then traced this size on my recently purchased piece of wood. Next, I sawed along the edge and sanded the outside. After this, I got rid of the structural piece of wood that had been in the center of the clock base since it was first created. I cut through the screws connecting this board on each side with a sawzall. The next step was to put a new structural piece of wood on the bottom of the base. After completing that, I screwed in two hinges onto the back of the clock base. Then, I screwed the tan piece of wood into the hinges, creating an appealing background for the clock face and pendulum.
When shopping for the back piece of wood, I kept in mind how it would make both the pendulum and clock face pop. While working properly is important to a grandfather clock, the visual appeal of it is considered by many to be equally important. When first using the sawzall, I was a little overwhelmed at how much it shakes your entire body while using it. After sawing the second screw, it felt as if my entire body were still vibrating due to holding the power tool for an extended period of time. Screwing in the hinges was not very difficult to complete, however I had to make sure that they were placed correctly so that the door will swing properly. After today’s work, I strongly believe that it was a huge visual improvement to my product as a whole.
Here I am cutting through the screw of the foundation board with a sawzall. Although this was my first time using this power tool, I felt pretty confident that I would not mess it up.
In my right hand I am drilling a screw through the back piece of wood into the bottom hinge, which I am holding with my left hand. This was one of the easier, yet more precise tasks during the project thus far.
Thursday, March 30, 2017
Total hours: 27.5
Today I constructed the two support blocks that I previously sketched and calculated. I completed this task with a power saw, an architect pencil, and two sawhorses. After I cut the first block, I then placed it on a corner of the wooden board I was cutting, traced it, and then sawed along the line to ensure both were equal length. Even though I calculated the measurements ahead of time, it took me three tries before I successfully made the mechanism vertically level. This is because on the first two tries I slightly strayed off the line, which made a big difference.
The activity I did today proves even more how precise one needs to be when working with grandfather clocks. On my first two efforts at cutting the proper-sized blocks, I could not have been off by more than a quarter of an inch. However, like everything else with this project, it made a huge difference. Once I screwed the two blocks pictured to the right into the interior of the clock, screwed the mechanism board onto those, placed the level on the flat surface, and saw the bubble in the middle of the two lines, I screamed with joy.
I am holding the two blocks which, once screwed in, allow the mechanism to be vertically level. It took a few tries, but eventually I was able to get it right.
Friday, March 31, 2017
4:00 PM – 5:00 PM
Total hours: 29.5
Basically, today’s alterations consisted of one simple action that was repeated several times. This simple action is turning the pendulum nut to the left or to the right, which raises or lowers the pendulum bob. I raised and lowered the bob seven times before reaching the ideal height. Each time after adjusting the nut, I pulled the pendulum to one side, released it, and then observed how long the clock accurately ran. The times varied by several minutes depending on the height. On the seventh adjustment, the clock ran accurately for a full twenty-five minutes before the minute hand started skewing in comparison with legitimate time.
This activity was by far the most time consuming of the entire project. It is not a difficult task whatsoever: adjusting the pendulum nut takes about thirty seconds at a time. However, the part that took up the most time was observing both the pendulum movement and the corresponding hand movements. I also paid careful attention to the possibility that the pendulum swings further on one side than the other (which means that the mechanism needs to be put in beat once more). After the clock ran successfully for twenty-five minutes, I was extremely proud of all of the work I have done to get here. Although I did not achieve my original goal of creating a fully functioning clock (which is virtually impossibly considering the pendulum and mechanism do not go together), the progress that I made was exponential.
Above I am slightly turning the pendulum nut to the right. Every slight turn of this nut makes a huge difference in the time the clock runs accurately.ke both the pendulum and clock face pop. While working properly is important to a grandfather clock, the visual appeal of it is considered by many to be equally important. When first using the sawzall, I was a little overwhelmed at how much it shakes your entire body while using it. After sawing the second screw, it felt as if my entire body were still vibrating due to holding the power tool for an extended period of time. Screwing in the hinges was not very difficult to complete, however I had to make sure that they were placed correctly so that the door will swing properly. After today’s work, I strongly believe that it was a huge visual improvement to my product as a whole.
Basically, today’s alterations consisted of one simple action that was repeated several times. This simple action is turning the pendulum nut to the left or to the right, which raises or lowers the pendulum bob. I raised and lowered the bob seven times before reaching the ideal height. Each time after adjusting the nut, I pulled the pendulum to one side, released it, and then observed how long the clock accurately ran. The times varied by several minutes depending on the height. On the seventh adjustment, the clock ran accurately for a full twenty-five minutes b